There is something special about rustic India, where almost every
experience is a romance in itself. I am travelling down from Yadagiri, a
small town in north Karnataka towards Kanaganahalli in Sannathi, a
nondescript village on the banks of the Bheema River. My interest in the
small hamlet is courtesy Emperor Ashoka of the Maurya dynasty, who left
his mark here several centuries ago. It is believed that the emperor
sent his son Mahinda and daughter Sanghamitra as his emissaries to
spread Buddhism in this region. The remains of a Buddhist stupa were
excavated here by the Archaeological Survey of India almost two decades
ago
The story begins with the discovery of an Ashokan edict. Kailash Rao, Associate Professor and conservation architect from Manipal University, who is consulting with the ASI in restoring the stupa, tells me that the edict was found in the neighbouring Chandralamba Temple when the roof collapsed and shattered the idol of the old deity. I see the edict placed right at the entrance in Sannathi. Written in Brahmi script and in the Prakrit language, it speaks of religious tolerance.
There are many panels of sculptures carved in limestone and strewn about
the place. The Maha Stupa, also referred to as Adholoka Maha Chaitya or
the Great Stupa of the Netherworld, dates from around the 3rd century
BC to the 3rd century AD. The original stupa would have probably been
built during the Ashokan period as some pottery shards were discovered
here as well. While some parts of the Ashokan stupa are still intact,
the architecture of the later Satavahana period stands out distinctly
The site is a treasure trove and the most priceless treasure belongs to
Ashoka himself. I see a broken portrait of a king with his queens gently
pieced together by archaeologists. It lies away from the main stupa
beneath the shelter of a tree. This, I am told, is the very first
inscribed panel of King Ashoka to be discovered in India. “We wouldn’t
know if there were any before, but this is the first we saw with an
inscription that says Raya Ashoka,” says Professor Kailash Rao
The sun’s rays fall directly on the drums and the larger-than-life
panels are arranged circularly around them. Stories and events from
Gautama Buddha’s life – his birth and his first sermon -- portraits of
more kings and queens from the Satavahana period, vignettes from the
Jataka Tales, mythical creatures, ancient cities, and stupas like
Varanasi and Sanchi are carved in both the drum and dome panels made of
limestone
Several life size statues of Buddha were discovered, including the four
that are normally placed on ayaka platforms and represent the cardinal
directions. This stupa was built largely in the Mahayana period, where
Buddha was depicted in the human form, unlike the Hinayana era when he
was symbolically shown. However, even here you can see symbolic images
such as the Bodhi tree, his feet, and an empty throne
There is more to this ancient site than just Ashoka. Professor Kailash
Rao says that there were several discoveries here that would also take
you back to prehistoric times. Besides the stupa, bangles, beads,
pottery, bricks, tiles, stone-heads and earthen vessels were found here
The conservation of the stupa is in progress and pains have been taken
to restore it as scientifically as possible. The challenge, the
professor says, is to maintain a balance between recreating it and
retaining its authenticity. Meanwhile, a shelter has been proposed to
protect these carvings from nature with a multimedia panel that will
explain the Jataka Tales
A group of school children from the neighbouring village visit Sannathi
with their teachers and see history in the making, right before their
eyes. It is only a question of time before the stupa puts Sannathi on
the world map of history 
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